Separation Anxiety can be very frustrating for new owners of rescue dogs since a dog with SA will often whine, dig, bark, excessively salivate, cause destruction (like scratching at doors, chewing through crates), and/ or  pee and poop in the house when the owner isn’t home.

The first thing to remember is that your dog is not doing this because he is mad at you, or to be a “bad dog”. As a result, punishment and anger will not work. Your dog is acting out because he is panicked that when you leave, you may not come back. After all, he is a rescue dog, so at some point in his life someone DID leave and not come back.

There are several things you can do to help your pup feel secure:

Calm Exits/Entrances  It is best to ignore your pup or say a simple goodbye and hello when you come and go. If you make emotional filled exits and entrances, telling your dog over and over that everything is going to be okay or get really excited with them when you get home, then your dog is going to be convinced that leaving him is a big deal because you always get so emotional!

Come and Go and Come and Go The more you come home and leave the faster your dog is going to learn that you aren’t abandoning him. Pick up your keys, put on your jacket, walk out the door, then turn around and walk back in. Do it again and again. Your goal is to be able to leave and come back before your dog gets upset. For some dogs that may mean you leave only for a few seconds. For other dogs, you may be able to walk out the door for several minutes. As your dog gets more comfortable, increase the time that you leave.

Break the Pattern Some dogs start to get nervous before you even leave. They learn to recognize “work clothes” or when you are getting ready to go out for the evening. If you can break this association, it will help your dog be more relaxed when you actually leave. Put your shoes on, pick up your keys, and then sit down on the couch. Get dressed and then take out the trash. Do your hair and then watch a movie.

Tired Pups are Happy Pups If your dog is properly exercised, he will be happy and balanced which will help to reduce his anxiety. Make sure your dog always gets exercise before you are going to be gone for long periods of time. If you don’t have enough time to take your dog on a long walk or run before work in the morning, then you can outfit him with a dog backpack with a little weight (soup cans or water bottles work great). This way your dog will work extra hard and get tired faster. 

Make puppy alone time fun! Find your dog’s most favorite food item/bone. It must be their “doggy caviar” and something that will take them awhile to eat. A Kong stuffed with peanut butter and then frozen works well. As do knuckle bones. Your dog is only going to get this item when you are gone. This way, your leaving is a good thing because he gets an amazing treat.

Get Some Help There are also several products on the market that could help to reduce your dog’s separation anxiety.  The DAP collar, DAP Diffuser, Rescue Remedy, and Thunder Shirt can all help.  All dogs are affected differently with these products. Try them one at a time to see what works for your individual pup. For severe separation anxiety that is not getting better with traditional training, there are also prescription drugs like Reconcile that are available from your vet.

For more training tips or to schedule a training lesson, please visit Pawtopia’s website www.pawtopiatraining.com

“Providing group classes and private in-home training throughout San Diego County”

No matter if your new dog is a puppy, or an adult, a change in a dog’s environment (i.e rescuing Fido from a shelter) will require you to reinforce those potty training skills. As for either a puppy or an adult dog, there are some simple, yet key steps to
follow that will ensure successful training.

Schedule – Being consistent with a feeding and walking schedule is crucial when it comes to potty training. The concept is quite simple: what goes in must come out. Make sure to take your dog outside after feeding time. If you see your puppy drink
a lot of water, make sure to take it out for a potty break shortly after as well. Also, it is important to make sure that your dog actually goes potty when you let him or her out. Once you see that your dog has successfully gone, then allow your dog back
inside the house. If your dog is on a consistent feeding/walking schedule, the dog gets accustomed to this and learns when it is acceptable to go potty.

Timing – If crate training a dog, it is important to know how long that dog can be left alone without an accident. The same can be said for allowing your dog inside the house. A good rule of thumb is a 2 month old pup should be able to go accident free for 2 hours, a 4 month old pup 4 hours, etc. For any puppy or adult dog in a new environment, begin with taking the dog out every 2 hours and continually build from there. The maximum time a dog should be expected to hold it is 8-9 hours. Forcing a dog to hold it any longer than this can actually hurt the dog’s bladder, if continually forced to hold itself. If you see that your puppy is engaging in play (running, tumbling, etc.), take the puppy outside for a potty break. All of that playing typically makes a young dog pee!

Crate Training - When Fido needs to stay home alone, crate training is an invaluable tool that reinforces house training. Because dogs are derived from den-dwelling animals, a crate can become a substitute for a den (i.e. a secure place for your dog to rest). Most dogs will not alleviate themselves where they rest, thus making crate training a perfect way to reinforce house training while Fido is home alone. To ensure crate training is successful, the size of the crate is crucial. The crate should be only large enough for the dog to standup and turn around. Any larger, and the dog could alleviate himself in the corner of the crate, and sleep at the other end. Most larger crates come with a divider that allows you to partition the crate, allowing the crate size to grow with the puppy.

House Privileges - When beginning to house train your dog, it is very important that the dog owner understands that access to the house is a privilege, not a right. Start by letting your new dog into one room, where you can constantly monitor Fido’s behavior. Make sure to close all bedroom doors, etc. Given the chance, your new dog is going to go potty in a room that you are not present in. When a dog has an accident, correcting that behavior (i.e. in a deep voice, “Bad Dog!”) is only meaningful to your dog when you catch your dog in the act. Thus, the importance of having the dog be present in the room you can monitor him or her in. During the early stages of potty training, look for signs that your dog needs to go to the bathroom. Most dogs will pace, or begin to sniff the floor. If you see either of these behaviors, immediately take your dog outside! Once you can trust that your dog can hold it 2-3 hours, and you are consistent with taking him or her out, allow your dog more access to the house.

Positive Reinforcement – Although corrections are important when you catch your dog having an accident, providing your dog with positive reinforcement when your dog relieves itself in the proper area is just as important. Such positive reinforcement can include, in an upbeat voice, “Good for potty!” and a pat on the head. Through this positive reinforcement, one can also train one’s dog to relieve itself on command. This can be very helpful in the mornings when the household is busy trying get out the door. To achieve this, take the dog to the same patch of grass, and while waiting for the dog to relieve itself, give the command “Go Potty!” Once the dog goes potty, give positive reinforcement (i.e. in an upbeat voice, “Good for potty!”). Eventually, your dog will be able to go potty on command!

Treating Accidents – It is important to understand that accidents will happen, it is inevitable during the early stages of training. When an accident does happen, make sure that you clean it with an enzyme cleaner. These cleaners break down the scent molecules, while a regular cleaner will simply mask the scent. Due to scent cues, dogs typically alleviate themselves where they or other dogs have gone before, making it very important to properly clean up an accident. Enzyme cleaners are sold at all major pet stores.

Most importantly, never give a correction for an accident that you did not witness! Dogs cannot associate a correction with an action that occurred in the past. Instead, use positive reinforcement when your dog successfully relieves itself outside. Remember that consistency is key when it comes to potty training!

As someone who loves dogs there is a good chance that you are someone who loves all pets. Your family already includes a cuddly (or cantankerous) feline, and now you plan to open up your heart and home to an adoptable pooch. You’ve crossed your fingers and wished to the stars that your cat and dog will get along.

The relationship between your cat and dog doesn’t have to be based on luck, in fact advanced planning can help ensure a smooth transition for all family members, two- and four-legged.

In my experience, 85% of dog/cat pairings can be successful. There are probably some trainers out there who will give you an even higher percentage (note, I’m not a trainer, just someone with lots of dog and cat experience). I find, though, there are about 10% of dogs that have such a high prey drive that it isn’t worth the trouble to train them to live with a cat. The other 5% of cases that don’t work are due to pet parents not properly monitoring and molding the relationship.

So, how do you successfully introduce your new dog to your resident cat? Here are the steps I follow when bringing a new pup home:

1)     First, understand the goal is for canine and feline to exist safely and peacefully. They do not need to be best friends – that is a bonus.

2)     Before your pooch comes home set aside a room/section in the house that is designated cat-only. This is a place the cat can easily go for safety and quiet time. Also, it is helpful to have a few high areas around the house for the cat to escape (cat trees are helpful if your furniture is off limits). Be sure kitty can get to the litter box and food and water dishes without any canine harassment.

3)     When you get home with your pup, walk him through the house on leash. See how he responds to the cat smells.

4)     Next, still on leash, take him into the room where the cat is hanging out (not the cat-only room.) You may need a partner to carry the cat to you and the dog. Do not put the cat next to the dog or allow them get in striking distance of each other. Initially, you just want to see how they respond to one another visually. Does the dog lunge, growl, wag his tail when he sees the cat? Does the cat hold her ground or take off running? Try to gauge both pets first reaction – fear, excitement, aggression, disinterest?

5)     During this initial introduction, start the training process. Once you gauge the first response from your pets, immediately ask the dog for his attention and give him a treat once he looks at you (you can use the treat to lure his attention). If the dog knows “sit”, ask for this behavior and give him another treat. The goal is for your pup to learn that seeing the cat equates to calm behavior and treats (eventually, you will wean out the treats).

6)     If the dog pulls on the leash and tries to chase the cat, calmly but firmly tell him “No.” Ask for his attention (again, using a treat to get his focus on you). Only give treats when he gives you eye contact (you can slowly raise the treat up to your eye to get him to look at you). Repeat, and repeat, and repeat this training. Once your pup knows the “sit” command without the cat around, add this command to the training routine.

7)     For the first few days keep the leash on the dog so you can quickly catch him if he starts to chase (the leash can just drag around behind him).  If his chasing is relentless, you will need to keep cat and dog separated except for designated training times. During these times you need to keep your pup on the leash (or you could tether him to a heavy piece of furniture) and work on the attention and sit commands while the cat has freedom to roam. (don’t leave your dog tethered when you aren’t monitoring the training). You can also have the pets on opposite side of a reliable/sturdy baby gate for this training. Do not use the dog crate for this training. A dog crate should only be used for calm, quiet time and never for training or punishment.

8)     Never leave cat and dog alone with access to each other when you aren’t present. Crate the dog (or leave him in a separate area), this includes night time when you are sleeping and can’t monitor their interaction.

9)     With consistent training, you pup will quickly learn that chasing the cat is not welcome behavior. I find this usually takes about 5 – 7 days of regular training, however with some dogs it can take longer if they have a strong prey drive. A last word of caution – don’t get overly confident in the cat/dog relationship too quickly. Usually, you’ll make some positive progress for a few days and then may have a few setbacks. I keep a close eye on my cat and dog for 4 – 8 weeks before I begin to let my guard down.

When you adopt from The Barking Lot, we will bring the dog to your house to do a “cat test” with your potential new family member. We can quickly evaluate if the dog will be trainable and open to living with a cat, or if you might want to consider another pup that will be easier to train. Some other things to consider when selecting a dog that will be good with your cat:

• The smaller the dog the less worries you’ll have about your cat getting hurt in a scuffle. However, try to avoid small dogs that have a snappy, mouthy response to fear.
• Large, gentle giant breeds are typically marshmallows around kitties.
• A dog that is known to be good with small dogs will not necessarily be good with cats. Dogs can tell the difference between species.
• In my experience, herding dogs and herding dog mixes (Border Collies, Cattle Dogs, etc) tend to be good with cats. They are bred for herding (so they might give chase) but they aren’t necessarily trying to catch their target (although they might use their mouth for a gentle course correction). Plus, these breeds tend to be very smart and catch on quickly to training (note, if you are considering one of these breeds, they will need a lot of exercise). Companion dogs tend to be good with cats too (Dalmatians, “lap breeds”, etc)
• Terriers and sight hounds (e.g., Greyhounds)  tend to have a high prey drive and are (again in my experience) hardest to train to live with a cat. That said, some of the gentlest dogs I’ve seen around cats are pittie mixes. So, often, it just comes down to the dog’s personality.

A few other notes to consider when blending your family with canines and felines:

• Keep the litter box in an area a dog can’t get to. Most dogs LOVE to eat cat poop. Not only is that a disgusting habit (who wants dog kisses after that!), but eating the litter along with it can be dangerous to their digestive system
• Keep the cat food where the dog can’t get to it (for instance, on a dresser), otherwise you’ll be wondering why you can’t seem to keep your pup’s weight down.
• If you have an aggressive cat that holds her ground and swats the dog, don’t let the dog fight back. Let the cat be dominant between the two…better to have a dog afraid of a cat than a dog that will hurt the cat.

We adopted Tasha in December, and I wanted to send a follow-up to you all to let you know how she’s doing in our home…

My husband had some trepidation about adopting her as she clearly has pit bull in her lineage.  He has had a fear of this breed for many years, as they have gotten much bad press as a result of people using them as fighting animals.  While I will admit that her 65 pounds belies how strong she really is, she has become one of the sweetest dogs I’ve ever had.  She loves to curl up in her bed with a blanket over her and be near us.  She is extremely well behaved with people and other dogs, even playing with little Whippets and Chihuahuas at Dog Beach.  It is a terribly sad thing that the shelters have so many pit bulls as a result of people misusing them, and the resultant public perception.  

As she had not been socialized with cats, it has taken some time to get them used to each other, but things are becoming much better as she has learned that ignoring them is the best strategy (thank you Nancy for your suggestions).  With a little investment in obedience training , we’ve found her to be among the smartest and most affectionate pets we’ve ever had.  Thank you for taking the time with us to find just the right match.

Hootie and Crop Circles Loving Life- picture from mom, Deanna

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Hi Stacy,

Just wanted to drop you a line and let you know how much we LOVE Chap! He fits into our small family perfectly and my daughter Bronte feels like she has a brother. The first few nights he slept on her bed but has now decided to hang out with me. He usually starts on the bed with me and then ends up in his bed in my room – I guess I am too noisy or move too much for him!

The first few weeks he was definitely scared and uncertain. Every time he saw the leash he would run away, I guess he thought he would be taken somewhere. But, now he sings and dances (seriously, he has the Basset Hound squealing and jumps around) every time he sees the leash and gets oh so excited! We take him to a nearby field and he runs crazy for 20-30 minutes every night – playing tag with Bronte. Those short legs move fast! He’s quite the guy and we are sick in love with him.

Thanks so much for helping us get him. Hope all is well with you. If you ever need help transporting dogs or doing house checks in this area, I’d be happy to help.

Take care,
Laura

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Hi Steph,

Happy New Year! Hope you had a nice NYE. Wanted to send you a quick update on the puppy (formerly Bowtie). He is doing really well and adjusting to his new home. Real sweetheart. We took him right to South Bark Dogwash after picking him up, and he did pretty well in the tub. He is sleeping in a crate in the bedroom and whimpered for about a minute the first night, and none last night. We take him out during the night and morning before he whines, 2am and 6am night one, starting with a four hour gap, and will lengthen a little more each night until we can see if he makes it through the night. We’ve taken him to Grape Street Dog Park, and Big City Bagels for lunch. He is good in the car, and has been to PetSmart, Petco, Pet People and Unleashed (let’s just say he IS living “the life of Riley!”)

No accidents in the house but we are pretty good at getting him outside frequently.

Here are some pictures, and please pass on to Stacy and others at the Barking Lot. Thanks so much, and again, Happy New Year. We are looking forward to a fun year with Riley!

Chris and Steve

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Hi Stacy,

I just wanted to let you know (please pass on to her foster mom) that Harper is doing FANTASTIC!!!! In fact, my mother is in love with her and wants to keep her so we are fighting for her attention. No really, Harper really just needed some serious training when it came to walking on her leash. Although she makes what sounds like a growl to some other dogs when on her leash (Its just her way of saying hi) – others get a little scared b/c of her pit look. It doesn’t matter – I know my baby is nothing but love and assure them she is friendly. In fact, I truly believe it was my negative/nervous energy that was creating her to act like that. Now that I am much more relaxed with her she has really chilled out. She is truly my Angel and I thank God everyday for her. I am so in love with her it is disgusting. Attached is a picture of her and I at the beach when she was a butter ball. She has really leaned out but I need to take some better photos of her at Grape Street this weekend. She is so spoiled and become the Queen Bee of my apartment complex! Also, the Pointer is REALLY coming out. I take her to the park about 3-4 times a week for an hour to two and she just runs like crazy – my little cheetah. I have no aggression issues with her. The only problem I have with her is she hogs the covers!!!!! HAAAAAA!!!! Anyways, just thought the update would make you feel at peace. Wish you all at the Barking Lot a beautiful New Year.

Love,
Laura and Harper Ruff!

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Dear all at TBL,

Just wanted to let you all know how Stella is doing since we adopted
her on Dec 10, 2011.

I am a registered vet tech with 40 yrs experience and my specialty is
in canine behavior. Stella has turned out to be the most amazing and perfect dog, although
the beginning was quite a challenge.

I didn’t want a Pit Bull type dog when I was first looking to adopt,
but when I saw the video of Stella as posted on PetFinder, I felt her
personality was what we were looking for and worth a second look to
meet with her in person at your shelter. (If not for that video that
showed her personality, I probably wouldn’t have given her a second
look.)

We had recently lost our beloved boxer to cancer and knew our next dog
would have some pretty big paws to fill.

As soon as I saw Stella walk out your shelter gate with Stacey in tow
to meet me, I had a gut feeling. I knew that was my dog.
She was hyper (more than I wanted), uninterested in me (bonded to
Stacey) but I watched her every move. And I knew.

…Having worked with dogs all of my life I am constantly amazed how each
one, no matter the age or background can and will learn, and LOVES to
learn and be engaged, if given the chance and a reason to trust and a
feeling of belonging.

Most of all, I’m amazed at how much I learn from them – always and
forever, something new.

Thank you for giving Stella a chance and for giving us a chance to
give a good life to Stella.

We know you are all about saving the dogs but hope you also realize
how much you help and indeed save the hearts and spirits of people who
love them also.

Bless you for all the good work you do.

Your friends
Stella, Cathy and David

Photo Courtesy of Monica Hoover.  Check out Monica’s post about Dolly @Rescued Cards.

We have adopted an astounding 17+ dogs this month already.  They all certainly deserve their own posts, but I wanted to take a second to write about an adoption a couple weeks ago that was a Barking Lot milestone.  Dolly had been a semi-permanent resident of TBL since we moved into our facility in March (she would occasionally go home with Stacy).  She quickly became a volunteer favorite, due to her social and mischievous nature.

For example, when in the play yard, Dolly had on more than one occasion jumped our 7ft fence and took herself on a walk.  When she was hanging out in the lobby, she would hop over the barrier, push open the front door and visit the surrounding business offices.  Our neighbors would cautiously approach her (off leash, running wild) only to have her walk up and roll over on her back, requesting a belly rub from her new friend.  Stacy will attest that no crate on the planet could hold that girl.

Stacy accounted a story about a night when she was leaving the Barking Lot for the evening, only to realize it had been a while since she had seen Dolly.  She called out for Dolly… and heard Dolly’s signature “HONK.”  Stacy looked up, as Dolly enjoyed crawling on the ceilings of the lobby and Sampson Suite.  But the sound of Dolly’s “HONK”was not coming from up high, but low, and behind the wall. Yes, somehow Dolly had managed to get inside the walls of TBL, and had gotten herself stuck.  Fortunately for her, she had a good friend in Stacy and instead of contemplating options that could leave Dolly trapped for hours, Stacy decided to destroy a little bit of wall.  Stacy kicked a huge hole in the wall of the Sampson Suite in order to free Dolly, who I am sure thanked Stacy with many kisses.

She is such a special girl and gave us endless entertainment with her crazy antics.  We are happy to report that Dolly held out for the best home possible for her adventurous nature.  Her new mom is a ultra-marathon runner and Dolly will get to enjoy plenty of exercise and outdoors with her.  We already miss her, but the number of dogs we have been adopting lately have been keeping us busy.  Now, take a look at our special girl during the time she spent at TBL.

Photo Courtesy of Monica Hoover, Check out Monica’s pictures @ Smug Mug.

 Squat and Pebbles enjoying an afternoon snooze together

Humane Society – Crate Training

Crating philosophy

Crate training uses a dog’s natural instincts as a den animal. A wild dog’s den is his home, a place to sleep, hide from danger, and raise a family. The crate becomes your dog’s den, an ideal spot to snooze or take refuge during a thunderstorm.

• The primary use for a crate is housetraining. Dogs don’t like to soil their dens.
• The crate can limit access to the rest of the house while he learns other rules, like not to chew on furniture.
• Crates are a safe way to transport your dog in the car.

Crating caution!

A crate isn’t a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog can feel trapped and frustrated.

• Never use the crate as a punishment. Your dog will come to fear it and refuse to enter it.
• Don’t leave your dog in the crate too long.  A dog that’s crated day and night doesn’t get enough exercise or human interaction and can become depressed or anxious. You may have to change your schedule, hire a pet sitter, or take your dog to a doggie daycare facility to reduce the amount of time he must spend in his crate every day.
• Puppies under six months of age shouldn’t stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a time. They can’t control their bladders and bowels for that long.  The same goes for adult dogs that are being housetrained.  Physically, they can hold it, but they don’t know they’re supposed to.
• Crate your dog only until you can trust him not to destroy the house. After that, it should be a place he goes voluntarily.

Selecting a crate

Several types of crates are available:

• Plastic (often called “flight kennels”)
• Fabric on a collapsible, rigid frame
• Collapsible, metal pens

Crates come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores or pet supply catalogs.

Your dog’s crate should be just large enough for him to stand up and turn around in. If your dog is still growing, choose a crate size that will accommodate his adult size. Block off the excess crate space so your dog can’t eliminate at one end and retreat to the other. Your local animal shelter may rent out crates.  By renting, you can trade up to the appropriate size for your puppy until he’s reached his adult size, when you can invest in a permanent crate.

The crate training process

Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog’s age, temperament and past experiences. It’s important to keep two things in mind while crate training:

• The crate should always be associated with something pleasant.
• Training should take place in a series of small steps. Don’t go too fast.

Step 1: Introduce your dog to the crate

Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Take the door off and let the dog explore the crate at his leisure. Some dogs will be naturally curious and start sleeping in the crate right away.  If yours isn’t one of them:

• Bring him over to the crate, and talk to him in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won’t hit your dog and frighten him.
• Encourage your dog to enter the crate by dropping some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If he refuses to go all the way in at first, that’s okay; don’t force him to enter.
• Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If he isn’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days.

Step 2: Feed your dog his meals in the crate

After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding him his regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate.

• If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate.
• If he remains reluctant to enter the crate, put the dish only as far inside as he will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed him, place the dish a little further back in the crate.
• Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat his meal, you can close the door while he’s eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as he finishes his meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until he’s staying in the crate for ten minutes or so after eating.
• If he begins to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving him in the crate for a shorter time period. If he does whine or cry in the crate, don’t let him out until he stops. Otherwise, he’ll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so he’ll keep doing it.

Step 3: Lengthen the crating periods

After your dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine him there for short time periods while you’re home

• Call him over to the crate and give him a treat.
• Give him a command to enter, such as “kennel.” Encourage him by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand.
• After your dog enters the crate, praise him, give him the treat, and close the door.
• Sit quietly near the crate for five to ten minutes, and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time, and then let him out of the crate.
• Repeat this process several times a day, gradually increasing the length of time you leave him in the crate and the length of time you’re out of his sight.
• Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can begin leaving him crated when you’re gone for short time periods and/or letting him sleep there at night. This may take several days or several weeks.

Step 4, Part A: Crate your dog when you leave

After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving him crated for short periods when you leave the house.

• Put him in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave him with a few safe toys in the crate.
• Vary at what point in your “getting ready to leave” routine you put your dog in the crate. Although he shouldn’t be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate him anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving.
• Don’t make your departures emotional and prolonged—they should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give him a treat for entering the crate, and then leave quietly.

When you return home, don’t reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to him in an excited, enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low key to avoid increasing his anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you’re home so he doesn’t associate crating with being left alone.

Step 4, Part B: Crate your dog at night

Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night, and you’ll want to be able to hear your puppy when he whines to be let outside.

Older dogs, too, should initially be kept nearby so they don’t associate the crate with social isolation.

Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with his crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet.

Potential problems

Whining. If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he’s whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to be let outside to eliminate. If you’ve followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn’t been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from his crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, he’ll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things worse.

If the whining continues after you’ve ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he associates with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you’re convinced that your dog doesn’t need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Don’t give in; if you do, you’ll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he wants. If you’ve progressed gradually through the training steps and haven’t done too much too fast, you’ll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.

Separation Anxiety. Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won’t solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but he may injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counter-conditioning and desensitization procedures. You may want to consult a professional animal-behavior specialist for help.

*** The information in this post comes from the Humane Society website.  For more information visit the organizations page at  http://www.humanesociety.org

As a puppy, Jake was chained outdoors in a tiny dog run with no shelter and no interaction from his people.  He had a chain around his neck that he was growing too big for and a cable that was so short, he was unable to move away from his own excrement. He was saved by Vicki Ristine-Maule and found his way to The Barking Lot, Jake is still looking for his forever home where his people will realize what a cool, cuddly, and playful guy he is. Until then, he is hanging out with us at the Barking Lot playing with friends (dogs and people alike), happy to never have to suffer that sort of abuse ever again. Obviously Jake’s case is an extreme example but to some extent nearly all outdoor only dogs suffer some sort of abuse.  Curious? Read On.

Dogs are social animals who crave human companionship. That’s why they thrive and behave better when living indoors with their pack; their human family members. This is substantiated by the experience of The Barking Lot volunteers as well as trainers, canine behaviorists, veterinarians and animal welfare associations nationwide.

The following is an excerpt from “The Backyard Dog”
by the Humane Society of Silicon Valley

Perhaps the biggest and most widely held misconception about dogs is the belief that they will be healthy and happy living only in the backyard. However, nothing could be further from the truth. Current studies in dog psychology show that dogs isolated in backyards are highly likely to develop serious behavioral problems that often result in euthanasia for the animal.

DOGS ARE PACK ANIMALS THAT THRIVE ON COMPANIONSHIP

Much like their wolf ancestors, dogs are very social. In fact, dogs are more social than humans and need to be part of human families. When you own a dog, you become the dog’s pack and he wants to be with his pack. Forcing a dog to live outside with little or no human companionship is one of the most psychological damaging things a pet owner can do to a dog.

DOGS ARE ALSO DEN ANIMALS….meaning they like to have a safe, quiet, and secure place to sleep, rest, and hang out, such as your house. Your dog has a wonderful ability to learn and therefore to be housetrained. A dog who resides more in your house than in the yard is a much happier, content animal, because of the security of a den and your companionship.

BACKYARD DOGS HAVE MORE BEHAVIORAL PROBLEMS

Since all of your dog’s instincts are telling him it is not good to be left alone or isolated from his pack, your dog can become very stressed or anxious. A dog exhibits stress by digging, barking, howling or whining, chewing, escaping, and exhibiting hyperactivity. These problems can become so troublesome that your neighbors may complain about the barking, howling, property destruction, or your dog escaping.

BACKYARD DOGS ARE HARDER TO TRAIN

Considering a backyard dog does not develop a strong bond toward your family, he is harder to train than a dog allowed to be in the house with your family. This also makes him less responsive to commands.

BACKYARD DOGS MAKE LOUSY GUARD DOGS

As a dog becomes naturally protective of where he lives (his territory or turf), he will only defend the area he lives in. If he is never allowed in the house, then the house will not become a place to protect. Most people keep their valuables inside their houses, so why wouldn’t you want your dog to protect the inside of your house? Unless allowed to live inside, your dog will not develop that sense of territory. He will not sound the alarm when someone tries to invade your house. It is not uncommon to hear stories of families being robbed while their backyard dog snoozed through the whole episode.

WHAT CAN YOU DO:  (Obviously all Barking Lot adopters have this knowledge already, but I will include it in case we need a refresh or so we can encourage friends & families to bring their fur-friends inside the house.)

Keep you dog with you!  At a minimum, your dog should have access to your living space whenever you are home, including sleeping inside your house at night. You do not have to spend every waking moment actively playing and talking to your dog; just the fact that your dog can lay quietly at your feet while you watch TV, work at your computer or sleep, is very important to his mental well-being.

NEVER TIE OR CHAIN YOUR DOG UP OUTSIDE

Dogs that are tied up or chained outside suffer extreme frustration which can result in hyperactivity and/or aggression against you, your family or friends. Dogs that are tied up cannot escape from other animals or people who mean to do them harm. They can also easily become entangled and do bodily harm to themselves. It has been a sad tale to hear of a dog tied outside because he was a fence jumper, only to hang himself while trying to do so! If you must keep your dog outside, provide a secure, high fence or an enclosed chain link dog run, with a top for those fence jumpers or climbers. Panels of chain link (that can be easily bolted together to provide a dog run) can be found at reasonable prices at your larger home supply stores, such as Home Depot. Provide a top with shade, a dog house for rainy weather, items to chew on, and plenty of fresh water. A dog should always be exercised before being left for the day in an enclosed area, such as a dog run or even your backyard.

THINK ABOUT HOW MUCH TIME YOU REALLY HAVE TO DEVOTE TO YOUR DOG

People who keep their dogs outside constantly rationalize it. They insist that they do spend time with their dogs, they do feed them, and they do walk them. Spending an hour a day with your dog is not enough for his mental welfare. Be realistic! What about when it is rainy, windy, cold, or just plain too hot? Are you still spending that hour daily with your dog no matter what? Making the backyard your dogs’ only home does not make him a real part of the family.

TRAIN YOUR DOG!

If your dog is untrained, take him to training class so you can develop better communication skills and teach him how to act appropriately in the house. If you have a young puppy, get him into a puppy training and socialization class as soon as he turns 12 weeks old. Don’t wait until he is six months old and has already acquired a taste for tipping over the garbage can or chewing on your rug. If you acquire an older dog, training him as soon as possible will help him adjust to his new household new pack.

GIVE YOUR DOG A CHANCE TO BE YOUR BEST FRIEND!

Don’t kick him out because you think he is not trainable, unruly or because it is “good for him to be outside” Instead, take the time to make him a part of your family, a part of your pack.

PROBLEMS THAT RESULT FROM OUTDOOR ONLY DOGS

* Dogs kept outdoors are deprived of human companionship and have more trouble bonding with human family members. They have more trouble learning to interact properly with humans. And without adequate supervision and guidance from their owners, dogs can and will develop undesirable behaviors.

* Bored dogs left in yards often bark at every sound or movement to occupy themselves … dig holes … fence-fight with neighboring dogs and other animals … chew and damage fencing, siding, decks and outdoor furnishings … dig under fencing … and climb or jump over fences.

* And when the owners do visit the dog in the yard, the dog is often out of control, having been starved of human companionship. They are more likely to jump, paw and vocalize as a result of excitement.

MORE RISKS

* Escape from the yard, which can lead to being hit by a car, lost in the woods, hurt by people. Also: they can frighten and even bite people out of confusion.

* Taunting and cruelty from youths or adults on the other side of the fence.

* Theft     * Poisoning  * Disease  * Trains  * Coyotes  * Parasites

* Neighbor complaints and threats; visits from animal control officers

* Accidental release by a passerby, meter reader or service technician. And any resulting bites or dog fights.

* Frustration from wanting to visit with passing dogs and humans, which can lead to barrier aggression, which fuels aggression towards other dogs and humans.

* Illness and chronic health problems from being out in hot, cold or wet weather in addition to exposure to Tick Fever, Heartworm or Valley Fever

* Sunburn or heatstroke.

* Fly bitten ears and other body parts, which can lead to open wounds and maggot infestation.

* Electrocution when digging up or chewing on wiring outside the house.

* Development of obsessive behaviors such as tail chasing, fly snapping and self-mutilation as a result of boredom and frustration.

* Enroll in a good training class that focuses on praise and other means of positive reinforcement.

* Provide exercise each day. A tired dog is a well-behaved dog. Throw a ball with the dog. Go for long walks. Give the dog a good exercise session before you leave for work in the morning.

Helping Abused Animals and Chained Dogs

If you know of a backyard dog, please check to make sure it has proper shelter. In San Diego we occasionally have sweltering hot summer days and freezing winter nights. The law requires that the outdoor dog has proper protection from the weather. Dogs can suffer from frostbite, exposure, and dehydration when water freezes.

The ideal situation for any dog is to be part of the family and live indoors, but some people, for various reasons, don’t bring their animals inside. Please make a difference for outdoor dogs and make sure they have adequate shelter. If you know of an animal that is living under substandard care, report the situation to your county’s humane society.

More Resources on How to Help Chained Dogs

http://www.peta.org/issues/companion-animals/helping-chained-dogs.aspx

http://www.dogsdeservebetter.com/

We adopted Morgen (now Sammy) from Barking Lot El Cajon on Sept 16. He loves his new sister, Simone, and his new parents (and visa versa) ! The jury is still out on the cats, but we are confident they will work that out.  -Robin

Carmela is doing great!  She is the most amazing puppy.  We’ve been to dog beach every day and she loves it.  I take her everywhere with me.  -Dan

Just thought you’d like to know that Jasper is doing great! He was extremely skiddish at first but is making great progress. He’s a total Mama’s boy now and is less afraid when new people come over.  Hope you all are doing well!  -Kendall

As you can see by the picture we love Buffy as much as she loves us.  She is so good and loves to play outside but is just a big cuddle bug when we are inside.  We have been walking her everyday and she is doing great on a leash.  Matt has already taken her to 2 sessions of obedience training at Petco and she is doing really well. Thank you again for letting us adopt her.  -RaeLynn

Shelby….formerly known as Dora… is such an amazing dog.   She LOVES the dog park and trips have quickly become a weekly Sunday Funday for us…. She has become the little mascot of our tanning salon….nobody cares that we are there anymore, they always ask where Shelby is.  I have clients always bringing her toys and treats. …. Overall she is such an amazing dog…we love her to death and thank you so much for bringing her to us. -Derrick

Buffy

Lincoln (formerly Ariel) with owner Chris at the beach

Moni (formerly Boysenberry)

Churro (formerly Daisy)

With play-date schedules full and new recruits arriving daily, soon we will have many more success stories and we will try to keep TBL supporters updated on all the great pictures and messages we receive.  If you are previous adopter, please feel free to email us and let us know how your fur friend is doing or follow The Barking Lot on Facebook and post pictures there for us to see.

Thank you to our supporters, adopters and volunteers that make these success stories possible.